Jersey Boy Does Newport
Chris Vollmer"It
will never happen to me," I told countless friends over the years after being asked
if I would spend just one summer elsewhere than Jersey and especially, LBI.
"Never."
Well,
to borrow a phrase from James Bond, I'll never say never again.
Maybe things had changed
too much for the worse. Developers tearing
down old Jersey Shore landmarks for luxury condos no one outside a rap star could afford. Landlords whose greed reached stratospheric
levels. Towns issuing $500 tickets for simply
accompanying a member of the opposite sex down the middle of the street after a night at
the Ketch.
Time
for change. Been south. Let's try north. So when I had a unique chance to
hop in a great house in Newport, Rhode Island, I figured I'd give it a try.
It
didn't take long to find out that Newport was different from any place I had ever been. By car, you cross two spectacularly long-bridges
with ocean views over the Narragansett Bay that makes you feel like you are entering a
different world. By train or bus from Port
Authority to Providence, there is a connecting Catamaran fast ferry similar to the one
from Wall Street to Sandy Hook that shoots you out into the bay itself and docks in the
heart of Newport's waterfront.
I've
tried both routes. Each time, the usual drama
in back in Hoboken has seemed light years away. Stress
- gone.
In just
two months, I realize how cool this town is. Awesome
bars by the dozens - most of them outdoors, rarely a line, all within walking distance. Architecture that takes you back to the days of
Paul Revere. Free beaches. Yes, free. Fresh
lobsters straight off the dock. Sailboat
captains who will take anybody who looks like fun out for a sunset cruise - especially if
you bring the booze. Eye-popping
mansions - which are open to the public - that help make a rainy day worth the effort of
getting out of bed. "Beach
Mondays" at the ultra-serene Second Beach. American
flags flying everywhere. Rents that are a
third of the cost at the Jersey Shore. It's
all there for the taking.
You
want a great Saturday Happy Hour? Try the
Atlantic Beach Club - known as The ABC - right on First Beach, live bands every afternoon,
and fantastic frozen drinks. There you can
get your boogie on, mingle with others at the open-air tables, or simply take your drink
back to the beach.
Looking for a rockin' scene at night?
The Dockside features one of the best cover bands I have ever heard -
"Those Guys" - on Friday nights and there is an accompanying outdoor deck bar
next to the club. On Saturday nights, there
are numerous options from the upscale Cooke House, to the date-wowing Newport Blues Café,
to the jammin' bands at The Landing and Garden. But
if you like your live music outdoors with about 500 drunken prospects, you'll love
Christies.
And for
those of you who consider Sunday night at the Parker House a quasi-religious event,
imagine putting the entire bar outdoors, same scene, much smaller lines, and no cover. Welcome to Sunday night The West Deck.
On a
recent Tuesday at The Madison, I almost choked on my drink to learn that Jersey Shore
towns are outlawing Beirut tables. Unlike the
wimps in Trenton who permit the taxing of public beach access and the amnesia-stricken
shore town mayors who have clearly forgotten who really pays the bills, Rhode Island is
run by people who "get it".
First
of all, Beirut tables are not only allowed in Newport, they are expected. Try throwing a party without one and you are
committing a social fo'pah. The local police
are so pedestrian friendly they actually block traffic outside the late-night pizza place
to ensure safe passage for the drunken and hungry masses.
And get this - Rhode Island is the only state in the nation that still
celebrates World War II Victory Day in August - thus creating a fourth summer holiday
weekend that is mostly recognized as a statewide Beach Monday.
The
Summer of 2005 may be just two weekends from closing shop, but you still have time to take
advantage of one of the best kept beach secrets in Hoboken.
With scores of small motels and historic B&Bs to choose from, Newport,
Rhode Island could be just the medicine you need to cure those late-summer blues.
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